🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. However, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the family utterly shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest shop securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary achievement.